Mechanism for operating on tubular blanks



Feb. 17, 1959 w. BLEICHER 2,8 ,7

uacx-mmsu FOR OPERATING on TUBULAR BLANKS Filed Dec. 19, 1955 v sSheets-Sheet 1 FIG.

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ATTORNEYS W. BLEICHER MECHANISM'FOR OPERATING ON TUBULAR BLANKS Feb. 17,1959 SHeets-Sheet 2 Filed Dec. 19, 1955 Feb. 17, 1959 MECHANISM FOROPERATING ON TUBULAR BLANKS Filed Dec. 19, 1955 w. BLEICHER 2,873;704

s Sheet s-Sheet 4 IN VEN TOR.

.A TTORIVEYS Feb. 17, 1959 w. BLEICHER MECHANISM FOR OPERATING ONTUBULAR BLANKS Filed Dec. 19, 1955 6 Sheets-Sheet 5 HVVENTUR.

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Feb. 17, 1959 W.BLEICHER 2,873,704

MECHANISM FOR OPERATING ON TUBULAR BLANKS Filed Dec. 19, 1955 6Sheets-Sheet 6 (\1 Q0 M Q a n\ I ARC liliin all l :zz.

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Mm fl BY W KA'M ATTORNEYS nism located behind said sewing machine.

United States Patent lVIECHANISM FOR OPERATING ON TUBULAR BLANKS WilliamBleicher, Packanack Lake, N. J., assignor to Trim-Master Corporation,Reading, Pa., a corporation of Pennsylvania Application December 19,1955, Serial No. 553,873

Claims. (11. 112-2 of a sweater and slitting said blank longitudinallybetween said sewed-0n tapes. other than sweaters.

This tubular weft-knitted blank may be a seamless blank which can beknitted on the well-known circular knitting machine.

This tubular blank may be a seamed blank which is made ofknitting theweft-knitted material in flat form, and then connecting the side edgesof the flat material by a longitudinal seam or suture. I

Such seamless or seamed blank is easily stretchable in the direction ofits height orlongitudinal axis. It has been the practice, for manyyears, if a sweater of thecoat type was desired, to knit a tubularweftknitted blank,-either a seamed blank or a seamlessblank, and firstto slit said weft-knitted tubular blank longitudinally. It has beenattempted to knit this blank to correct height or length for theselected size. However,

This-invention applies to garments due to the easy stretch ofweft-knitted fabric during' the knitting, the length of this blank oftenis not the correct length for the selected size.

Prior to slitting, the weft-knitted blank has usually been subjected topreliminary operations, such as dyeing, which have changed the originallength of the knitted blank.

After the blank has been slit, the practice has been to apply twopre-cut tapes, first sewing one tape to one edge of the slit, and then.sewing the other tape to the other edge of the slit. These tapes havebeen pre-cut to the correct length for the selected size. An ordinarysewing machine has been used to sew each tape to its respective slitedge. As above noted, the length of the slitedge is often greater orless than the p're-cut len'gth'of the tape. It is necessary'for theoperator either to stretch a short slit-edge, or to form gathersin along slit edge, during the sewing operation, so that the ends of thesewedon pre-cut tape should coincide with the ends of the respectiveslit-edge. This has required highly skilled labor, and even then, manysweaters have not had the proper fit, hang and appearance.

I eliminate these difiiculties and secure fast and uniform production,and other advantages later stated herein.

The machine later described has three main units, namely, a sewingmachine, an endless belt conveyor located in front of said sewingmachine, and slitting mecha- The sewing machine has two feed-dogs. Onefeeddog operates solely on thematerial of the unslitted blank, to feedsaid blank towards the needles of the sewing machine. This feed-dog isdesignated as the front feed-dog. The other feed-dog operates both onthe material of the "ice unslitted blank and its sewed-on tapes, to feedthem towards the slitting mechanism, I

The conveyor and said feed-dogs may be operated in successiveintermittent feeding strokes. The conveyor and said feed-dogs may havethe same number of feeding strokes per minute, so that their respectivefeeding rates may depend upon the respective lengths of their respectivefeeding strokes. These feeding strokes may be simultaneous.

The respective lengths of said respective feeding strokes may beadjusted by any adjusting means, many of which are well known.

In one embodiment of the invention, the conveyor and the rear feed-doghave simultaneous feeding strokes of the same length, to provide thesame feeding rates, and

the front feed-dog has simultaneous feeding strokes ofgreater lengththan the feeding strokes of the .belt conveyor and the feed-dog.

The invention is further explained in the annexed drawings anddescription.

Fig. 1 is a perspective view of theimproved machine. The feed is fromleft to right.

Fig. 2 is a longitudinal elevation of certain parts of the machine,partly in vertical section.

Fig. 3 is a horizontal section, partly in top plan view, on the line 3-3of Fig. 2.

Fig. 4 is a section on the line 4-4 of Fig. 2.

Fig. 5 is a top plan view of the machine, the representation of certainparts being omitted.

Fig. 6 is a longitudinal vertical section on the line 6-6 of Fig. 3. Itshows both feed-dogs in their lower or inactive or non-feedingpositions, in which positions said feed-dogs are being moved reverselyin rear, non-feeding strokes towards the left, as viewed in Fig. 6. Theupper movable cutting or slitting knife which is later mentioned, isshown in its lower slitting or cutting position.

Fig. 7 is similar to Fig. 6, showing both said feeddogs in their upperpositions, during their forward feeding strokes which is to the right,as viewed in Fig. 7. The cutting knife is shown in its upper idleposition.

Fig. 8 is a section on the line 8-8 of Fig. 5.

Fig. 9 is a perspective exploded view of the parts of the dilferentialfeed mechanism later mentioned herein.

Fig. 10 is a perspective view, partially in section, which illustratesthe intervening irregular gathers which are formed according to the oldmethod.

Fig. 11 shows the great improvement which results from the improvedmethod. In Fig. 11 the gathers are of uniform width and heightthroughout.

Fig. 12 is a top plan view of the conveyor, showing in broken lines howthe conveyor can be turned out of its operating position of Fig. 1, ifit is desired to thread the loopers of the sewing machine which form thechain stitches, or to make any other adjustment or repair orreplacement.

Fig. 13 is a section, partially in elevation, on the line 13-13 of Fig.12.

Fig. 14 is a section on the line 14-14 of Fig. 13.

Fig. 15 is a section on the line 15-15 of Fig. 14'.

Fig. 16 is a section on the line 16-16 of Fig. 15.

Fig. 17 is a section on the line 17-17 of Fig. 16.

Fig. 18 is a sectional view on the line 18-18 of Fig. 6.

Fig. 19 is an enlarged perspective view in the direction of the arrow 19of Fig. 3.

Fig. 20 is a top plan view of a chain of connected sweaters which resultfrom the improved method.

Fig. 21 is a section on the line 21-21 of Fig. 20.

Fig.22 is a sectional view which illustrates the finished position ofthe tape.

The machine comprises a table 1, which is supported on legs 2. Asuitable sewing machine S is fixed to the table 1 or to any othersupport. This sewing machine feed is .from right to left.

S may be of a well-known commercial chain-stitch type, which has'beenmodified for the purposes of this invention. As one example, thestandard chain-stitch sewing machine which is thus modified, is known inthe trade as Union Special 11-900-K machine. In commercial form,thismachine has two needles, but it has only one looper, so that itordinarily makes a stitch of the type known as 406.

As shown in Fig. 19, the modified chain-stitch sewing machine S has theusual two needles 3 and 4. As shown in Fig. 2, the machine S has twoloopers 44 and 45, which are fixed to the looper shaft 46 of the machineS. This shaft 46 is operated and the loopers 44 and 45 are operated inthe usual manner. The machine S thus forms two parallel rows of chainstitches 49, which sew tapes 38 and 39 to the top of the blank B, beforethe bdy-or blank B is slitted between the sewed-on tapes 38 and 39.

The needle-plate 83 is shown in Fig. ,9. In Fig. 9, the Thisneedle-plate 83 has a fixed longitudinal cutting edge or knife edge 101This may be the cutting edge of a steel insert which is fixed in saidneedle-plate 83. Said needle-plate 83 has needleholes 80 and 81, whichhave a relative longitudinal ofiset, instead of being on the samelateral line. The vertical needles 3 and 4 are also correspondinglylongitudinally offset as shown in Fig. 13. These needles 3 and 4 arevertically reciprocated in the usual manner. The sewing machine S hasthe usual presser foot P, which operates in the usual manner.

The sewing machine S also has a main shaft 5 which has a pulley which iscontinuously rotated in the same direction by a belt 6, which isconnected to the pulley of the usual motor. Said main shaft 5 has anumber of eccentrics E, each of which has the usual strap or sleeve 5a.These straps or sleeves 5a operate selected members.

The conveyor The conveyor C is mounted in a casing 21, which has aU-shape and is open at its top.

As shown in Fig. 13, the casing 21 is fixed to a bottom plate 111, whichis fixed to a vertical pivot sleeve 109, which is turnable on verticalpivot stud 110, which is fixed to table 1. Whenever desired, the plate111 and the casing 21 and the conveyor C can be turned in unison aroundthe vertical axis of pivot stud 110, from the longitudinal operatingposition of Fig. l to the idle position of Fig. 12 or beyond said idleposition shown in Fig. 12, in order to get access to the sewing machineS for any desired purpose.

The conveyor C is a flexible, endless belt, made of canvas or othersuitable material. It has a top run 7, which is moved longitudinallyforwardly towards the sewing machine S, when the conveyor is in itslongitudinal operating position of Fig. 1.

As shown in Fig. 13, the conveyor C is mounted on a rear idler roll 8and on a front driven roll 9 which have horizontal, lateral axes. Thisdriven roll 9, which is proximate to the sewing machine S, is turnedintermittently in the same direction, in respective equal angularstrokes, whose angle can be adjusted, in order to feed top run 7forwardly and longitudinally towards the needles 3 and 4, inintermittent forward strokes of selected equal length. When viewed as inFig. 17, the driven roll 9 is turned intermittently clockwise. This canbe done by various well-known mechanisms.

As shown in Fig. 14, said driven ,roll 9 has lateral ribs in thedirection of its laterally disposed and horizontal shaft 10. As shown inFig. 13, shaft 10 is turnable in bearings which are fixed to thevertical walls of .casing 21. Roll 9 is fixed to its lateral shaft 10.This can be done by one or more set-screws 11, shown in Fig. 16, whichare located in radial recesses of the driven roll 9.

.As shown in Fig. 16, each end-face of the driven roll '9 has an axialor a lateral end-recess of cylindrical shape.

One cylindrical end-recess of roll 9 has an actuator, which isoscillated in alternate and opposed active strokes and idle strokes.This actuator engages and turns roll 9 in the active strokes of saidactuator, and said actuator releases roll 9 in the reverse idle strokesof said actuator, so that roll 9 is intermittently turned in only asingle direction. Any conventional means can be used for this purpose.In this embodiment, and without limitation thereto, the actuatorconsists of a plate 12 and one-way clutch means. As viewed in Fig. 17,when plate 12 is turned clockwise, its clutch-means engage the innercylindrical periphery of the respective end-recess of roll 9, thusturning roll 9 clockwise in unison with plate 12 as viewed inFig. 17,through aselected angle. When plate 12 is turned counterclockwise, asviewed in Fig. 17, said one-way clutch means release roll 9, whichremains stationary when plate 12 is thus turned, so that roll 9 isturned intermittently in only the clockwise direction, as viewed in Fig.17.

Plate 12 is loose on shaft 10, so that plate 12 is freely turnableback-and-forth relative to shaft 10.

Plate 12 has a set of horizontal and lateral planar walls or faces 15. Aclutch-roll 14, which is turnable about its horizontal and lateral axisrelative to the respective face 15, movably and turnably abuts each face15. Each clutch-roll 14 is associated with a plunger 16, which fitsslidably in a respective bore of plate 12. Each plunger 16 is locatedcounterclockwise relative to its roll 14, when viewed as in Fig. 17 Eachplunger 16 is associated with a compression spring 17. The compressionsprings 17 bias the plungers 16 to urge the clutch-rolls 14 along therespective planar walls or faces 15, towards the narrow ends of thespaces which are provided between the faces 15 and the respective innercylindrical periphery of the respective end-recess of roll 9. Hence theclutch-rolls 14 engage said inner cylindrical periphery of the endrecessof driven roll 9, in order to turn driven roll 9 in unison with plate'12, when plate 12 is turned clockwise, as viewed in Fig. 17. When plate12 is turned counterclockwise, as viewed in Fig. 17, the turnableclutch-rolls 14 turn around their respective axes and slip relative todriven roll 9, and do not turn roll 9 reversely.

Plate 12 is fixed to a disc or plate 18 by screws 20, so that plate 18oscillates in unison with plate 12. Plate 18 is also loosely mounted onshaft 10.

As shown in Fig. '16, one end of a link 22 is pivotally connected toplate 18. This is done by a pivot screw 23, which has a smoothcylindrical shank which fits in a smooth cylindrical bore of link 22.Said screw 23 is fixed to plate 18. Fig. 13 shows an arcuate slot 112 inone vertical wall of casing 21, through which the cylindrical pivotshank of screw 23 extends. Said screw 23 is movable back-and-forth insaid arcuate slot 112.

As shown in Fig. 13, the other end of link 22 is adjustably andreleasably fixed to a rod 24, by cooperating screw-threads. One end ofrod 24 has a ball which fits turnably in a spherical socket which isprovided at the proximate endof a head 25,-to provide a conventionaluniversal-joint coupling. The vertical axis of said ball is coincidentwith the vertical axis of pivot stud 110, around which the casing 21 isturnable. Hence the casing 21 and its conveyor C can be turned aroundthe common vertical axis of said ball and pivot stud 110, to theposition illustrated in Fig. 12, without releasing rod 24 from the head25. This provides very convenient means for getting access to the sewingmachine S, when desired. It is not necessary to disconnect the drivingmechanism of the conveyor, in order to turn casing 21 around said commonvertical axis. The universal joint connection between rod 24 and head 25also permits link 22 to turn relative to head 25, when link 22-isactuated while the conveyor C is the operating .position of Fig. l.

The other end of head 25 is turnably connected to a pivotpin 26,whichisadjustably located in a slot 27 of a plate 28, After adjustingpivot pin 26to a selected posit ion in slot 27 the pivot pin 26 can beheld releasably in its adjusted position in slot 27 by conventionalmeans.

Thus, the pin 26 can be clamped in its'selected ad usted position inslot 27,since head 25 is turnable relative to pivot pin 26. 1

As shown in Fig. 2, the lower end of plate 28 is conn'ected by a pivot108 to one end of a rod or link 107, whose other end is connected bypivot 109a to the frame of'the machine. The plate 28 can thus beoscillated around pivot 108, thus actuating link 22 back-and-forth, andthus oscillating plate 12 and roll 9 in unison, to actuate the top run 7of conveyor C forwardly towards the sewing station, in feeding strokesof regulated length, as determined by the adjustment of pin 26 in slot27.

Plate 28 is oscillated around its pivot 108 by a link or rod 105. Asshown in Figs. 2, and 13, plate 28 is connected by a pivot pin 29 to oneend of said link or rod 105, whose other end is pivoted by pivot pin 106to the rock-arm 30 which is shown in Fig. 2 and Fig. 5. As shown in Fig.2, the pivot pin 106 is adjustable in a slot 104 of the integral head'103 of the rock-arm 30, thus providing additional means for regulatingthe stroke of conveyor C. The pivot pin 106 is" held in its adjustedposition by conventional means. As shown in Fig. 2,'said rock-arm 30 isturnable on a pivot-stud 31, which is fixed tothe frame F of the sewingmachine S. At one end thereof, the rock arm 30 is connected by pivot pin32 to a rod 33, which is integral with the usual respective eccentricstrap or sleeve 5a which fits on one of the eccentrics E which are fixedto the main shaft 5 of the sewing machine S. The eccentric E and itssleeveor strap 5a operate to actuate rods 33 and rock the arm 30 aroundstud'31, thus actuating the link 105 in a reciprocating stroke ofselected length. As

above noted, the pivot 29 of the plate 28 is connected to theadjacent'end of the rod or link 105, so that link 105 oscillates plate 28, thusoperating link 22 and the roll 9 and conveyor C.

The plate 28 is thus oscillated or rocked by arm 30 and link 105, aroundthe axis of pivot pin 108, thus actuating head 25 and link 22, tooscillate the plate 12 and roll 9 and to actuate the top run 7 of theconveyor C inintermittent forward feeding strokes towards the sewingmachine S. i

The other cylindrical end-recess .of driven roll 9 has a brake-unit,which prevent-sireverse turning of roll 9 so that the top run 7 of thebelt C is actuated only in a forward direction. This reverse directionis counterclockwise, as viewed in Fig. 17.

This brake-unit comprises a plate which is identical with plate 12, andbrake-rolls 14a which are identical with clutch-rolls 14: Saidbrake-unit also has said plungers 16 and compression springs 17. Theplate of said' brake-unit is fixed to a companion plate 18a, which isfixed to the respective vertical wall of casing 21, by one or morescrews 115, which are shown in Fig. 16.

As viewed in Fig. 17, the positions of brake-rolls 14a and of theirplungers and of the planar surfaces of the plate of said brake-unit, arereverse to the positions of these parts in the actuator for roll 9.Hence the brake-unit permits the roll 9 to turn in the selected orfeeding direction, and prevents reverse turning of'roll 9. As abovenoted, there are many wellknown mechanisms for turning the driven roll 9in intermittent strokes of selected angle in a single direction, and anysuch mechanism can be used.

As shown in Fig. l, a longitudinal scale of length 43 is fixed to eachvertical wall of casing 21.

As shown in Fig. 14, an inverted rigid U-shaped plate 40is fixed byscrews41 to the parallel vertical walls of casing 21. This plate 40 hasa top, median, vertical, longitudinal rib 42, 'over which the top run 7of conveyor C is located. The longitudinal median part of top run 7slidably abuts the 'top of rib 42. A median longitudinal peak-is thusformed in said-top run 7 and also in the unslitted body of blank B atthe top of rib 42." The blank B is provided with a longitudinal dropstitch or other longitudinal marker. The operator manually locates saidmarker of blank B at and along the top of rib 42, and manually pressesthe lateral legs of the flexible top run 7 and of the blank B and alsomanually presses the tapes 38 and 39 towards the peak of. the top run 7,at the respective outer end of blank B." The marker of blank B is thuskept in accurate sliding registration with rib 42. The blank B and thetapes 38 and 39 are thus prevented from shifting relative to each otherat the rear or neck end of the tubular blank'B and at the rear ends ofthe measured lengths of the tapes 38 and 39. Theblank B and top run 7and the rear'ends of the measured lengths of the tapes are moved inunison relative to the fixed rib 42. The tapes 38 and 39 are withdrawnfrom respective reels.

The operator first forms two or three anchoring chain stitches at thefront end 'of blank B and in the adjacent parts of tapes 38 and 39, bymeans of the needles 3 and 4 and the loopers 44 and 45, operating thesewing machine S for this purpose. These anchoring stitches are formedin each of the two rows 49 of said stitches. At this time, the blank Bis unslitted. The presser foot P is lowered in its clamping position,thus clamping the front end of the unslitted blank and the tapes.

The operator'then measures the proper lengths of the two tapes 38 and 39from these anchoring stitches, such as a length of nineteen inches foreach tape. This is easily done by the scales 43. The top of'blank B isat this time mounted in its normal unstretched length on the top run 7of the conveyor C. That is, the blank B now has its unstretched length,which may be greater or less than the correct length for the respectivesize of the sweater or other garment.

The operator can then easily determine Whether the normal unstretchedlength of the blank B is equal to or less or greater than the correctmeasured lengths of the uncut and non-stretchable tapes 38 and 39.

If the unslitted, tubular weft-knitted blank B is too short for therespective size, the operator stretches the blank B to the selected andcorrect length of the uncut tapes, and manually holds the blank B in itsstretched length, together with the tapes 38 and 39, at the unanchoredrear neck end of the blank, as shown in Fig. l. The blank B and the rearends of the correct measured lengths of the tapes 38 and 39 arelaterally pressed towards the fixed rib 42, which provides a convenientfinger-hold. If the unslitted blank B is too short, it is thus manuallykept stretched to proper length for the selected size on the top run 7,while the blank B and the tapes 38 and 39and the hand of the operatorare moved forwardly towards the sewing machine, in unison with top run 7of conveyor C. In such case, the feed of front feed-dog D, whichoperates to feed the blank B towards the needles 3 and 4, may have thesame rate of feed as the feed of the top run 7. As above noted, thisfront feed-dog D operates only on the material of the blank B.Optionally, the feed of the front feed-dog D may be longer or shorterthan the feed of top run 7, depending on the particular case. 1

In any event, if the normal unstretched length of blank ,B is shorterthan the correct measured lengths of the tapes 38 and 39, whose measuredlengths correspond to the proper selected size, the blank B is heldstretched to the correct selected length while the tapes 38 and 39 aresewed to blank B anterior the slitting station. The rear or neck end ofblank B and the tapes 38 and 39 can be manually released at or close tothe needles 3 and 4.

If the original unslitted blank B is too long for the respective size,the top wall of blank B, while its front end and the tapes are thus heldfixed by or at presserfoot P, is gathered or puckered in transversefolds between' its front anchored end and its rear manually-grippedend,so that its length of blank B on the top wall 7, as measured onestraight line between its anchored front end and its grippedrear end, atwhich the blank B is gripped to the rear ends of the measured correctlengths of tapes 3.8 and 39, is the correct selected length of the twolong and uncut tapes .38 and 39.

In such case, the forward feed of the front feed-dog D is adjusted toprovide a differential feed which is faster than the forward feed of thetop run 7 of conveyor C. Said differential feed of the front feed-dog 'Dis, in this case, also faster than the forward feed of the rear feeddogM. In this case, the rate of feed of the top run 7 and of the rearfeed-dog may be equal.

Uniform and small gathers are thus formed in the part of blank B whichabuts the top run 7 of conveyor C, in front of the needles 3 and 4, andthe tapes 38 and 39 are sewed to the gathered materialof blank B.

The rear ends of the correct measured lengths of the tapes are also heldagainst the rear unanchored end of blank B, until said rear end is at orclose to needles 3 and 4. The correct measured lengths of the tapes 38and 39 are held taut in every case, without any gathers, during thesewing.

In operating on any blank B, the respective feeds of conveyor C and ofthe feed-dogs D and M, which are later more fully described, can beselected at the beginning of each operation on each blank B.

The conveyor C is held under selected longitudinal tension by suitablemeans. In this embodiment, the lateral and horizontal shaft 34 of therear idler roll 8 extends through respective longitudinal slots 36 inboth vertical walls of casing 21.

The rear idler roll 8 is turnable on its lateral shaft 34. Said shaft 34is provided with external heads 35. A longitudinal adjusting screw 37 isturnably mounted in a lug of each vertical wall of casing 21. By turningthe screWs 37, they force the heads 35 and the shaft 34 longitudinallytowards the rear end-wall of casing 21, which isat the left of Fig. 1,thus selectively applying longitudinal tension to conveyor C. The shaft34 i slidable in slots 36.

Tape-guides Each tape 38 and 39 is led off a suitable reel or roll. Eachtape has an original fiat shape. The tapes 38 and 39 extend throughrespective angular tape guides 47 and 48, which are in front of thesewing station which is provided by the needles 3 and 4 and theirloopers 44 and 45. The tapes 38 and 39 are thus angularly bent by theirguides 47 and 48 anterior the sewing station to angular shapes,'eachtape being thus bent to have a vertical leg and a horizontal lateralleg. The horizontal legs of tapes 38 and 39 extend laterally in oppositedirections from said vertical legs. Each row of stitches 49 is formed ina respective horizontal tape-leg and also in the top wall of theunslitted blank B. The tapes 38 and 39 are flexible, but they havesufficient rigidity so that they are held in .said angular shapes at thecutting station, so that the longitudinal slit in the top wall of blankB is formed between the vertical tape-legs.

F eed-dog mechanism Fig. 9 shows a front feed-dog D, which operates onlyin front of the needles 3 and 4, to feed only the top wall of theunslitted blank B towards the needles 3 and 4 and their loopers 44 and45. As above noted, the .direction of feed is from right to left in Fig.9, so that slot DS is a front slot of the needle-plate 83. Saidneedleplate 83 also has two longitudinal slots MA, and another needleslot 100. Feed-dog D operates in the three slots MA-DSMA of theneedle-plate 83. This feeddog D has a rigid frame 65, which has threeparallel and longitudinal rows of teeth 62, 63, 64, which operate insaid slots MADS'MA of the needle-plate 83, anterior the needle holes 80and 81 of needle-plate 8 83. The short intermediate slot .135 definesthel n fl of the. feedingstroke .of fLontfeBd-GQE D- Fig. 9 also showsthe rear feed-dog M which operates .in feeding strokes both in front andin rear of needles 3 and 4, to feed the blank B and also to feed thetapes 38 and 39 towards the needles '3 and 4 and also to feed the blankand .its sewed tapes away from the needles 3 and 4, towards and throughthe cutting station. Thisfeed-dog M has three parallel and longitudinalrows of teeth 50,51, 52.

These teeth 50, 51, 52 operate in respective slots of the needle-plate83. The middle row 51 of teeth of feed-dog M operates only inneedle-slot behind the needles 3 and 4. The outer rows 52and 50 operatein slots MA, partly in front of and partly behind the needles 3 and 4.

Therearfeed-dog M has a frame 53 which is fixed to a longitudinal,cylindrical rod .54. This .rod 54 is shown in broken form in Fig. 9, forconvenience of illustration.

This longitudinal rod 54 fitsslidably in a cylindrical bore of a head55, which is integral with the frame 65 of the front feed-dog D. Thisframe 65 is shown in broken form in Fig. 9 for convenience ofillustration. Suitable means may be provided for preventing the rod 54from turning around its longitudinal axis in said cylindrical bore ofhead 55.

Each said feed-dog D and M is moved in an upper longitudinal feedingstroke forwardly towards the needles, and also in a lower longitudinalidle or non-feeding stroke in the reverse or rear direction. Eachfeed-dog D and M is given a short vertical movement at the end of eachlongitudinal feeding stroke and at the end of each idle stroke, as isusual in operating the feed-dogs of axsewing machine.

Fig. 6 shows each feed-dog D and M in its lower nonfeeding position, atthe end of a rearward idle stroke. In such position, the tops of theteeth of said feed-dogs D and M are in the same lower horizontal planerelative to and below the top face of needle-plate 83, which is shown insection in Figs. 6 and 7.

Fig. 7 shows feeddog D and feed-dog M in their upper positions, at thebeginning of their respective forward feeding strokes. The tops of theteeth of said feed-dogs D and M are then in the same horizontal plane.

These feed-dogs D and M are moved in unison in their vertical movements.As above noted, the hollow head 55 is integral with the frame 65 of thefront feed-dog D, and the frame 53 of the rear feed-dog M is integralwith cylindrical rod 54, which fits closely and slidably in acylindrical bore of said hollow head 55.

This head 55 is moved up and down, in order to move the feed-dogs D andM vertically in unison.

For this purpose, and as shown in Fig. 9, a link 69 is pivoted at 70 tothe hollow head 55, and said link 69 is pivoted at 68 to rock-arm 66.Only parts of rockar1n 66 are shown in Fig. 9, for clarity ofillustration. This rock-arm 66 is pivoted at 67 to the frame F, and theend of rock-arm 66 which is not shown in Fig. 9, is pivoted on the rodor stud 31 which is shown in Fig. 2 and which'is fixed to the frame F ofthe machine S. Said rock-arm 66 is operated like the rock-arm 30, by arespective eccentric 5a on the main shaft 5 of the sewing machine S. Therod 33a corresponds to rod 33, and pivot 32a corresponds to pivot 32.The sole function of rock-arm 66 is to shift the head 55 up-and-down andthus to vertically shift the feed-dogs D and M in unison.

The rod 54 which is fixed to frame 53 of the rear feed-dog M, also fitsin and extends slidably through a sleeve 56 which is integral with head55. Said rod 54 also fits in and extends slidably through a bore of ahead 57, which is integral with sleeve 56. The rearend of rod 54 isfixed to a clamp 58 which is integral with the head 59.. As above noted,theframe 65 of the rear that said frame leasably clamped in selectedadjusted position in slot 74.

This arm 75 has an angular rigid extension which is connected by pivot79 to the head 59, which aspreviously noted, is fixed rigidly to rod 54and hence to the frame 53 of the rear feed-dog M. n

Arm 75 is connected by a pivot 76 to the upper ends of a pair of links77. These two links 77 are connected at their lower ends by pivot 78 toone end of a rock-arm 61, which is turnable on the pivot-stud 31 whichis fixed to the frame F of machine S. This arm 61-is pivoted at 60 tothe head 59. The hub of the arm 61 which is turnable on the fixedpivot-stud 31 may be integral with or fixed to the hub of the arm 30, orarm 61 may be operated by a respective eccentric a on shaft 5 in unisonwith arm 30.

' It is assumed, as one example, that the pivot pin 73 is adjusted inthe slot 74,'until the axis of pivot pin 73 is coincident with the axisof pivot pin 79. As above noted, pivot pin 79 turnably connects theextension of arm 75 to the head 59. It is assumed that the rock-arm 30is turned counterclockwise from its position of'Fig. 9, around the axisof pivot stud 31.- n

Arm 61 will turn'counterclockwise around pivot-stud 31 in unison witharm 30, because the hubs of arms 61 and 30 on the pivot stud 31 areeither integral, or are fixed rigidly to each other, or arm 61 isoperated in unison with arm30 by a respective eccentric 5a on shaft 5.Due .to'the pivotal connection 60 between arm 61 and head 59, thisturning movement of arm 61 will move head 59, the-rod 54 which is fixedto head 59 by clamp 58, and the rear feed-dog which is fixed to rod 54,to the left of their respective positions shown in Fig. 9, thus movingthe rearfeed-d-og M in a left feeding stroke.-

' Q'I'his assumed counterclockwise turning movement of arm 61 will alsoturn arm 75 clockwise around its pivot '79, by means arms links'77,which are wholly independent of the rock-arm '30 and its head 103. Thatis, the only connection between rock-arm 30 and arm 75, is theconnection provided by arm 61 links 77 and piv-ots 76 and78.

The clockwise turning movement of arm 75 and its exte'nsion around pivot79 will operate link 72 to move head 57 (which: is slidable relative tohead 59 and rod 54) in an equal longitudinal feeding stroke to the left,if the pivots 73 and 79 are on the same horizontal axis. In such case,if the axes of pivot pins 73 and 79 are maintained horizontallycoincident, the two feed-dogs M and ,D .will be operated in equallongitudinal strokes, in the samenumberof strokes per minute, so thatboth-feeddogs M and D will have the same feeding rate. IIt is nowassumed that, as shown in Fig. 9, the horizontal axis of pivot 73 isbelow the. horizontal axis of -pivot79. p U a In such case,'the head 57,sleeve. 56, head 55, frame 65 and the front feed-dog D will have alonger longitudinal-feeding stroke than the elements 595854M. Feed-dogsD and M will then .havethe same number of strokes per minute,and'feed-dog D will have a greater feeding rate than feed-dog M.

The feeding strokes of D and M are always in the same direction, andtheir reverse or idle or non-feeding strokes are always in the samedirection. That is, as viewed in Fig. 9, when arm 75 is turnedcounterclockwise, around pivot 79 by links 77 and arm 61, this urgeslink 72 and the assembly 5756--55-D to the right; and arm 61 and pivot60 simultaneously also urge the assembly 5954-M to the right.

Said knife 82 has a cutting edge 84.

Hence, if the unstretched or normal blank'B is of correct length, thepivot 73 is adjusted in slot 74 until the horizontal axes of pivots 73and 79 are coincident. In such case, the length of the feeding strokesof the top run 7 can be adjusted until top run 7, front feed-dog D, rearfeed-dog M have feeding strokes'of the same length and the same numberper minute. In such case, the rate of feed will be the same towards theneedles 3 and 4, and away from the needles 3 and 4 towards the cuttingstation.

As one example, if the normal unstretched length of the blank B isgreater than the proper length for the respective size, the pivot pin 73is adjusted below its position in which its horizontal axis iscoincident with the horizontal axis of pivot 79, thus providing agreater rate of feed of front feed-dog D, which may be greater than therate of feed of conveyor C.

The slot 74 may be of suflicient height so that when pivot pin 73 is atthe top of slot 74, the axis of pivot 73 may be coincident with or abovethe axis of pivot 79.

If the axis of pivot .pin 73 is keptv above the axis of pivot 79, adifferent differential feed is secured."

As above noted, it is wellknown to adjust the length of the feed strokeof a feed-dog by well-known means, which can be used for the purposes ofthis invention.

Slitting mechanism A vertical flat bar or bracket 89 is fixed by screws90 to the head of the sewing machine. A rock-arm 92 is pivoted at 29a tosaid head. Said rock-arm 92 is oscillated by a respective eccentric E onmain shaft 5. The rod 33b corresponds to rod 33. Said rod 33b ispivotally connected, as by aball-and-socket joint, 'to'rock-arm 92. Thisrock-arm 92 vertically reciprocates the needles 3 and 4.

An angular knife rod 86 is pivoted at 91 to the rockarm 92, and is alsopivoted at 88 to the bracket 89. A screw 101, which has a lock-nut 102,extends through a threaded bore of bracket 89, to about the angularkniferod 86. e

A knife 82 is 'adjustably fixed to knife-rod 86 by clamping screws 87.This'knife 82-has a lug 85 which is movably located in the slot of theneedle-plate 83. The lug 85 also has a sharp cutting edge.

The knife 82 is thus operated in its slitting stroke, while the feed ofthe work is stopped.

. 'Fig'. 20 showsanother important advantage. The tapes 38 and 39 aredesignated as uncut tapes, because they can be of'anylength.

After one blank B has been sewed to the tapes 38 and 39 and thenslitted, the feed of the tapes'38 and 39 can be continued, beforeputting another blank B on the top run 7. This results in a chainofblanks B, which have intermediate spaces 97.

After a chain of blanks of any length has been formed, the tapes 38 and39 can be laterally cut to be flush with the ends of the blanks B.

' Fig. '22 shows how the material of blank B is turned to provide a fold98, which is spaced fromthe slit edge. .The respective edge of therespective tape is then sewed to the blank B-by longitudinal stitches99.

Fig. 2 shows the bearings 114 for the shaft 10.

Hence, according to my invention, I progressively sew the tapes to anunslitted blank, while the straightline length of the blank is thecorrect length for-the respective size, by either stretching the blankor forming gathers in the blank, if the normal unstretched or ungatheredlength of the blank is not the .correct length for the respective s1ze.

- The belt C may turn in unison with its driven roll or pulley 9, orthere may be a slip between the belt C and its driven pulley 9, so thatthe longitudinal feeding rate of top run 7 may be less than if there wasno such slip. Even if there is normally no slip between the belt C and l1 its driven pulley 9, such slip can be produced by applying brakingpressure upon the top run 7, as by firmly manufilly-pressing the .toprun against the rib .42,v or by any regulated braking device.

This can be used to regulate the feeding rate of top run 7 towardsthesewing machine, instead of regulating the feeding rate of the frontfeed-dog D.

Thus, if there is no slip between belt C and its drive pulley 9, and theblank Bis too short and must be kept under longitudinal stretch in frontof the needles 3 and 4, therate of feed of the frontfeed-dog D may beregulated to have the same feed or a faster feed than the top run 7.Also, if the blank B is too long and is gathered ontop run 7, the rateof feed of front feed-dog D may be adjusted to be faster than the toprun 7.

By producing a slip between belt C and its drive pulley 9, the rate offeed of top run 7 is lowered, thus producing the same etfect .as if thebelt C does not slip and the rate of feed of front feed-dog D is greaterthan the rate of feed of the top run 7.

Hence the method disclosed herein can be practiced by differentmechanisms.

Many changes, additions, modifications and substitutions .can be madewithout departing from the scope of the invention.

I claim:

1. A machine which comprises an endless belt conveyor which has alongitudinal top run, a support which has turnable pulleys on which saidconveyor is mounted, said conveyor having a front end and a rear end,said conveyor being shaped to extend through a tubular blank and tosupport the top ofsaid blank on said top run, a sewing machine held at asewing station in fixed position at said rear end, said sewing 'machinehaving sewing means, slitting means held at a slitting station locatedbehind said sewing machine, said slitting means having a knife which-ismovable baek-and-forth, said sewing machinehaving a front feed-dog and arear feed-dog, said front feed-dog beinglocated and operative only-infront of said sewing means to feed only said blank from said top runtowards said sewing means, laterally-spaced tape guides located in frontof said sewing means, said tapeguides being shaped to bend normally flattapes into angular shapes which have blank-abutting parts abutting saidblank in the sewing machine and to have spaced parts which are spacedfrom said blank in said sewing and slitting stations, saidblank-abutting parts being sewed to said blank insaid sewing station,said rear dog being located and operative both in front and in rear ofsaid sewing means and in said slitting station, actuating means foractuating said top run and said feed-dogs'in intermittent rearwardfeeding strokes in unison and for operating said knife in intermittentcutting strokes between said intermittent feeding strokes.

2. A machine according to claim 1 in which said top run has a supportwhich has a longitudinal peak.

3. A machineaccording to claim 1, which has means for adjusting theratio of said feed strokes'towards said sewing means to the ratio ofsaid feed strokes behind said sewing means. i

4. A machine according to claim 1, in which said actuating means arearranged to be connected when said front end is turned away from saidsewing machine, said support being mounted on a pivot to permit turningsaid front end away from said sewing machine.

5. A machine according to claim 1, in which said front feed-dog isoperated by difierential means to adjust the feeding stroke of saidfront feed dog.

6. A machine according toclaim l, in which said belt conveyor has a sliprelative to said pulleys, and said'belt conveyor has a drive pulleywhich is connected to said actuating means, said slip being adjustableby braking pressure. 7 v

7. Mechanism for operating on an unslitted tubular blank which has alongitudinal axis, said mechanism com prising the combination of asewing station, a slitting station located behind said sewing station,feeding mechanism for longitudinally and rearwardly feeding said blankin unslitted form along a feed-line through said sewing station and foralso feeding said blank longitudinally and forwardly through saidslitting station, slitting mechanism located at said slitting stationand adapted to form a slit in said blank along a longitudinal slit line,said sewing station having stitch-forming mechanism adapted to form twolongitudinal and parallel lines of stitches which are spaced laterallyfrom said slit line and which are on opposite sides of said slit line,said sewing station having longitudinal tape-guides located anteriorsaid stitch-forming mechanism, said tape-guides being located lateralyrelative to said slit line at opposite sides of said slit-line, saidtape-guides being adapted to feed two respective tapes longitudinallythrough said stitch-forming mechanism, said stitch-forming mechanismbeing adapted to sew said tapes to the unslitted tubular form along saidparallel lines of stitches.

8. Mechanism according to claim 7, in which said feed line ishorizontal, each said tape guide has an angular shape with a verticalleg and a horizontal'leg, said vertical legs being proximate, saidangular tape guides holding said tapes in corresponding angular formswith vertical tape-legs and horizontal tape-legs at said sewing stationand at said slitting station, said horizontal tape-legs being located atsaid sewing station to have said lines of stitches provided in saidhorizontal tape-legs, said slitting mechanism being operative to formsaid slit between said vertical tape-legs.

9. Mechanism according to claim 7, in which said feeding mechanismincludes first feeding means located and operative to feed only saidblank towards said sewing means, and second feeding means locatedrearwardly of said first feeding means and located and operative to feedboth said tapes and said blank towards said sewing means and saidslitting station.

10. Mechanism according to claim 9, in which said mechanism alsoincludes means for actuating'said feeding mechanism in intermittentrearward strokes in unison and for operating said slitting mechanism inintermittent cutting strokes between said intermittent heating strokes.

References Cited in the file of this patent UNITED STATES PATENTS1,195,814 Higgins Aug. 22, 1916 1,541,385 Piscitello June 9, 19251,659,559 Bates Feb. 21,1928 1,730,968 Channell Oct. 8, 1929 1,981,124Schmidt et a1 Nov. 20, 1934 2,011,512 Carmichael et a1 Augp13, 19352,269,491 Snyder Jan. 31, 1942 2,411,637 Ramage Nov. 26, 1946 2,479,609Fouch etal Aug. 23, 1949 2,549,294 De Marco Apr. '17, 1951 2,744,481Blittschau May 8,1956

